Now that my French husband
Maxime is into a fitness regime, we don’t go wine touring so often. This was
making me a little sad … until I reminded myself what wine tasting with the
Frog was actually like.
Back in France, we often took
visiting friends and family to one of Maxime’s favourite wineries in Alsace – Domaine Marcel Deiss, situated in the
half-timbered medieval wine village of Bergheim near Colmar. My uncle and aunt
were among the fortunate first to be taken there. And, as often happens in
France, we were greeted not by some black-apronned flunky but by the winemaker.
Or in this case, Jean-Michel Deiss’s wife. My aunt and uncle traded pidgin
French for pidgin English with Mrs. Deiss and things started well.
Especially since she gave us
all a glass of crémant (Alsatian sparkling wine), which went down a treat.
‘Ooh, champagne!’ said my Aunt
appreciatively.
‘It’s not champagne,’ began
Maxime.
‘Don’t you start!’ I warned
him.
Then we tasted a wine made of
a blend of different Alsatian grape varieties known as Edelzwicker in Alsatian
dialect (just trying saying that after a few glasses of Alsatian champagne).
Most Edelzwicker, which means noble mixture, is not very edel at all, (one winemaker once let on it was just all the
leftovers the Alsatians pass off on the Germans). But Jean-Michel Deiss,
relishing tradition, terroir and trend-bucking, went back to the ancient
co-planting ways, and worked hard, employing the most fastidious winemaking
methods until he was given a big elephant stamp by critics for his Edelzwicker
experiments.
In short, these mixture wines
were the pride of the Domaine. Presenting us with the flagship wine, Mrs.
Jean-Michel waited expectantly to hear how we liked it. And this was when the
wine tasting got dangerous. When asked what I thought of a wine, I usually came
out with terrible clunkers:
‘It smells like petrol,’ I
would announce to a winemaker.
‘No! It’s got great
minerality!’ Maxime would hiss in my ear.
‘Oh right. It’s very minerally.
Yeah. And it smells a bit like grass.’
A small groan beside me.
On the way home in the car, Maxime
would explain.
‘You don’t say it’s like grass,
you say herbaceous or lively,’ he would scold. ‘If you don’t like the wine,
then go ahead. But to say the wine tastes like petrol or grass you’re telling
the winemaker you think it has a defect!’
I had been also been known to
observe that wines smelt like ham, hessian sack or green capsicum. If what
Maxime said was true, the maker of the hessian sack wine no doubt went out the
back and shot himself.
Now, holding a glass of Mrs.
Deiss’s husband’s pride and joy, I felt a few butterflies. What could I say
about it that would not cause Madame Deiss to slit her wrists or keel over in a
faint? What did Maxime say I should call petrol wines again? I should have
written cheat notes on my hand.
Luckily for me, Madame Deiss
turned to my unfortunate uncle for feedback. He went red as he tried to think
of something to say.
‘It’s nice ... and ... and ... warm,’
he said finally. He brightened, having thought of something to add. ‘Yes. It’s
like sherry!’
There was a silence.
Jean-Michel’s wife knitted her brows and cocked her head on one side, waiting
for my uncle to elaborate. A wine tasting like sherry may be approaching the asymptote
of divine for my parents’ generation, but in winespeak, it was more like saying
‘it’s crap’.
Maxime threw his hands up in
the air and was about to harangue my uncle when I tugged him by the sleeve.
‘What do you think of this
vintage compared to 2003?’ I asked him hurriedly.
Successfully distracted,
Maxime now began a rather lengthy monologue about recent vintages in southern
Alsace.
With a bit more sleeve-tugging
on my part, we managed to negotiate the rest of the wine tasting. I was quite
exhausted by the time we left, the car boot loaded up with crémant and
sherry-wine.
After the wine tasting, we
headed off to an architecture exhibition at the open air Alsatian museum, the
Ecomusée. My uncle is an architect himself, so at the architecture exhibition,
he would enjoy being the knowledgeable one while Maxime would be the novice. Until
we came to the house made of bottles, that is.
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